We now have a website - - - www.ferretsnorth.org and the blog will be moving to the site! This will not happen for a little while yet, but soonish! If you are concerned about not being able to find the blog, do not fret - this site will redirect you there as soon as we get all the bugs worked out.
See you at our new home =)
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Volunteer Meet
For those living in Prince George and area that are interested in volunteering with Ferrets North Information and Rescue Society or who are simply curious ABOUT the society, we are having a gathering July 12 from 2 to 3 pm at Fort George Park. We will be meeting by the band shell and can be identified by the fact that we will most likely be the only people in the park with our ferrets.
See you then!
(Society Ferrets are magic and can defy the laws of gravity)
See you then!
(Society Ferrets are magic and can defy the laws of gravity)
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Making Progress...
The purpose of Ferrets in the North was to connect ferret owners, enthusiasts, future ferrents and people who wanted to re-home their pets, as well as those who were simply curious about the animals... not content to sit idly by, we at Ferrets in the North are taking it ONE STEP FURTHER! Ferrets in the North is becoming a real-life ferret rescue!
Our formal BC government approved name: Ferrets North Information and Rescue Society. Our goals are to educate, rescue and re-home ferrets in Prince George and (as we grow) Northern BC.
We are having a volunteer meet as well as an information day July 12 (location to be determined - we are hoping for Fort George Park), so any interested parties can feel free to attend. We will also be having a member sign up and FERRETS ARE WELCOME! Bring your fuzzies along for the fun! Details of the event will be posted as soon as they become known, so stay tuned!
For those who enjoy reading this blog: don't worry! It will still be here! After all, a little extra ferret information is always a good thing!
Sunday, June 28, 2009
The Case for Cat Milk
When a ferret requires a bit of fattening up, many people recommend different supplements and foods such as ferretvite (in the tube, not the multivitamin water additives), cream, ensure, baby food and so forth. One thing that I have never heard recommended, and I feel should certainly be used is Whiska's cat milk, rather than cream.
Cream, due to the lactose, can cause an already weakened ferret's condition to worsen as many ferrets cannot digest cream properly. In other words: if a ferret is already weak, does it make sense to be giving them what amounts to a high fat laxative? This is not a problem with Whiska's cat milk.
Cat milk is a high fat, reduced lactose cream supplement designed specifically for cats who, like ferrets, are often unable to digest lactose as adults. In my experience, I have found that most ferrets that will drink cream LOVE cat milk. Cat milk provides the same benefits as cream is supposed to with a reduced risk of causing your ferret to suffer from diarrhea! Cat milk can also be used to hide the taste of small amounts of Pepto-Bismol (which is great for preventing ferret tummy aches), and, as an added bonus, cat milk is fortified with a small amount of taurine!
Cream, due to the lactose, can cause an already weakened ferret's condition to worsen as many ferrets cannot digest cream properly. In other words: if a ferret is already weak, does it make sense to be giving them what amounts to a high fat laxative? This is not a problem with Whiska's cat milk.
Cat milk is a high fat, reduced lactose cream supplement designed specifically for cats who, like ferrets, are often unable to digest lactose as adults. In my experience, I have found that most ferrets that will drink cream LOVE cat milk. Cat milk provides the same benefits as cream is supposed to with a reduced risk of causing your ferret to suffer from diarrhea! Cat milk can also be used to hide the taste of small amounts of Pepto-Bismol (which is great for preventing ferret tummy aches), and, as an added bonus, cat milk is fortified with a small amount of taurine!
Friday, June 19, 2009
Deafness in Ferrets: A bit about Waardensburg Syndrome
If you are familiar with ferrets, you have undoubtedly heard that blaze ferrets are more prone to deafness than other ferrets. This is true. The reason behind it is a genetic condition known as Waardensburg Syndrome.
Waardensburg Syndrome results in the underdevelopment of the cochlear of the inner ear, and is found in ferrets with white heads* such as blazes, pandas and DEWs. The same genetic codes that cause the ferret to have a white head can also cause the ferret to be deaf or hard of hearing. This is not to say that ALL ferrets with white heads ARE deaf, simply that they are genetically predisposed to deafness. In other words: ferrets with white heads are not all deaf, but they are MORE likely to be deaf than, say, sable ferrets.
*Albinism is caused by a genetic condition which is entierly different than Waardensburg Syndrome; albinism is not an indication of deafness but, due to the complications with eye development resulting from lack of pigment, albinism in ferrets has been attributed to poor(er) eyesight and potential blindless
Waardensburg Syndrome results in the underdevelopment of the cochlear of the inner ear, and is found in ferrets with white heads* such as blazes, pandas and DEWs. The same genetic codes that cause the ferret to have a white head can also cause the ferret to be deaf or hard of hearing. This is not to say that ALL ferrets with white heads ARE deaf, simply that they are genetically predisposed to deafness. In other words: ferrets with white heads are not all deaf, but they are MORE likely to be deaf than, say, sable ferrets.*Albinism is caused by a genetic condition which is entierly different than Waardensburg Syndrome; albinism is not an indication of deafness but, due to the complications with eye development resulting from lack of pigment, albinism in ferrets has been attributed to poor(er) eyesight and potential blindless
Saturday, June 6, 2009
How to live with your ferret - 5 tips for successful cohabitation
Because we have been into lists lately, here is a list of 5 'golden rules' that help make life with ferrets a LOT easier!
1) Ferrets are not dogs. They cannot be trained like dogs. The sooner that you accept this, the happier you both will be.
2) Ferrets will NEVER use their litters 100% of the time. Period. End of story.
The very best that you can hope for is 90%. Caging, flicking, yelling at, giving time outs, scruffing and any other type of discipline that you can think of (appropriate or not) will NOT help rectify this. Ferrets just don't care - their litter is the nearest corner or, if they are angry with you, any spot that you will notice (though definitely NOT in the litter box).
*** for tips on methods of discipline, see "Curb your Ferret - Disciplining do's and dont's"
3) Taboo = fun for ferrets. If they know that a room is off limits, for example, a ferret will wait for the door to open and try to race you inside. Once inside they will often run about, bouncing, dooking, and doing the war dance. Disciplining for this is, well, pointless - ferrets won't understand why you hate their game so much, and will continue this game... in fact, by disciplining, you have made it MORE taboo and appealing!
4) Pick your fights. Overdoing discipline will lead to a stressful relationship between you and your ferret, and make discipline ineffective. Something worth disciplining your ferret for may include attempting to bite the family cat because the ferret is in a grumpy mood and that cat is there. This could be an opportunity to use a time out. Disciplining for the following: not using kitty litters, stealing objects, climbing over barriers, onto counters, under door, digging up plants, digging food, etc is NOT a good idea - it is a pointless waste of time that will stress both of you out.
***If your ferret constantly gets into areas that he or she is not allowed, you should be the one being disciplined, not your ferret; it is up to YOU to ferret proof in order to keep the ferret out, not up to your ferret to know to stay out!
5) Ferrets will be ferrets. They do 'ferrety' things such as stealing and hoarding random objects, missing their kitty litters, digging their food and your plants, sleeping in random places, getting into your stuff, knocking things over, getting where they aren't supposed to go and so on... if you don't like it (or feel the need to discipline the animal over such occurrences), they aren't the pet for you. The sooner that you are able to accept that discipline will not stop your ferret from being a ferret, the sooner the both of you can get on living and enjoying each others company. (Yes, I know that this is a bit of a repetition, but the point needs to be stressed!)
Enjoy your little critters for what they are: Ferrets!
1) Ferrets are not dogs. They cannot be trained like dogs. The sooner that you accept this, the happier you both will be.
2) Ferrets will NEVER use their litters 100% of the time. Period. End of story.
The very best that you can hope for is 90%. Caging, flicking, yelling at, giving time outs, scruffing and any other type of discipline that you can think of (appropriate or not) will NOT help rectify this. Ferrets just don't care - their litter is the nearest corner or, if they are angry with you, any spot that you will notice (though definitely NOT in the litter box).
*** for tips on methods of discipline, see "Curb your Ferret - Disciplining do's and dont's"
3) Taboo = fun for ferrets. If they know that a room is off limits, for example, a ferret will wait for the door to open and try to race you inside. Once inside they will often run about, bouncing, dooking, and doing the war dance. Disciplining for this is, well, pointless - ferrets won't understand why you hate their game so much, and will continue this game... in fact, by disciplining, you have made it MORE taboo and appealing!
4) Pick your fights. Overdoing discipline will lead to a stressful relationship between you and your ferret, and make discipline ineffective. Something worth disciplining your ferret for may include attempting to bite the family cat because the ferret is in a grumpy mood and that cat is there. This could be an opportunity to use a time out. Disciplining for the following: not using kitty litters, stealing objects, climbing over barriers, onto counters, under door, digging up plants, digging food, etc is NOT a good idea - it is a pointless waste of time that will stress both of you out.
***If your ferret constantly gets into areas that he or she is not allowed, you should be the one being disciplined, not your ferret; it is up to YOU to ferret proof in order to keep the ferret out, not up to your ferret to know to stay out!
5) Ferrets will be ferrets. They do 'ferrety' things such as stealing and hoarding random objects, missing their kitty litters, digging their food and your plants, sleeping in random places, getting into your stuff, knocking things over, getting where they aren't supposed to go and so on... if you don't like it (or feel the need to discipline the animal over such occurrences), they aren't the pet for you. The sooner that you are able to accept that discipline will not stop your ferret from being a ferret, the sooner the both of you can get on living and enjoying each others company. (Yes, I know that this is a bit of a repetition, but the point needs to be stressed!)
Enjoy your little critters for what they are: Ferrets!
Monday, May 25, 2009
Curb your ferret! - Disciplining do's and don'ts
For those of you new to the ferret world, or perhaps just looking for some new approaches to disciplining your ferret, here is a list of DOs and DON'Ts that will help give you the tools to teach your ferret how to behave without becoming the bad guy.
***DON'Ts are things that may injure your ferret, render discipline ineffective, or damage your relationship with your ferret. In other words: to foster a happy and fulfilling realtionship with your ferret, don'ts should be avoided AT ALL COSTS!
DO keep in mind that every ferret reacts differently to different forms of discipline - what works on one may not necessarily work on another; it is best to try multiple approaches until you figure out what works for your ferret.
DON'T nose flick!!! Besides being mean (a ferret's nose is very sensitive) and teaching your ferret that people are something to fear, nose flicking can lead to permanent damage of the nasal cavity.
DON'T spank, smack or hit your ferret in any way!!! These forms of 'discipline' border on abuse and tend to lead to less than friendly relations between ferrets and their owners. Remember: ferrets are SMALL ANIMALS - what may seem like a light tap on the bottom to you is in fact a jarring full body blow to a ferret. You wouldn't appreciate a large hockey player body checking you every time that you did something wrong, so why replicate the feeling by smacking your pet?
DO use time outs. They can give you and your pet a brief cool-down period.
DON'T use the cage as a time-out room. Doing so will cause your ferret to associate his cage with punishment and will leave him wondering what he did wrong come bedtime!
DON'T give more than 5 minute time outs. Any more than 5 minutes and your ferret will forget why he or she is IN time out, making the time out pointless.
DO try squirting the ferret with a spray of water for misbehaving. I find this one effective for deterring unwanted carpet and couch digging/ scratching for both ferrets AND cats.
DO use a firm "NO" to let your ferret know when he or she is doing something bad. I recommend using the firm "NO" before a time out, or in conjunction with a spray or a scruff, though it can be effective on its own.
DON'T yell at your ferret!!! You may frighten your ferret, and a ferret that considers humans to be a source of fear is not a happy ferret.
DO scruff your ferret and say "no". A gentle scruff and drag can also be effective for curbing nipping and other unwanted behaviour some in ferrets.
DO use praise to reinforce good behaviour. Positive re-enforcement is always a good thing, and the odd treat along the way certainly doesn't hurt.
DO pay attention to how your ferret reacts to different forms of discipline to determine what is effective for your ferret. At the moment, I have one ferret that reacts negatively to the "scruff and drag" but responds well to time outs and the firm "no". I have another ferret that responds to praise, but ignores the firm "no" and is impervious to time outs (he cannot be scruffed due to injuries sustained in his previous home).
Good luck figuring out what works for your ferret, and avoid DON'Ts like the plague!!!
***DON'Ts are things that may injure your ferret, render discipline ineffective, or damage your relationship with your ferret. In other words: to foster a happy and fulfilling realtionship with your ferret, don'ts should be avoided AT ALL COSTS!
DO keep in mind that every ferret reacts differently to different forms of discipline - what works on one may not necessarily work on another; it is best to try multiple approaches until you figure out what works for your ferret.
DON'T nose flick!!! Besides being mean (a ferret's nose is very sensitive) and teaching your ferret that people are something to fear, nose flicking can lead to permanent damage of the nasal cavity.
DON'T spank, smack or hit your ferret in any way!!! These forms of 'discipline' border on abuse and tend to lead to less than friendly relations between ferrets and their owners. Remember: ferrets are SMALL ANIMALS - what may seem like a light tap on the bottom to you is in fact a jarring full body blow to a ferret. You wouldn't appreciate a large hockey player body checking you every time that you did something wrong, so why replicate the feeling by smacking your pet?
DO use time outs. They can give you and your pet a brief cool-down period.
DON'T use the cage as a time-out room. Doing so will cause your ferret to associate his cage with punishment and will leave him wondering what he did wrong come bedtime!
DON'T give more than 5 minute time outs. Any more than 5 minutes and your ferret will forget why he or she is IN time out, making the time out pointless.
DO try squirting the ferret with a spray of water for misbehaving. I find this one effective for deterring unwanted carpet and couch digging/ scratching for both ferrets AND cats.
DO use a firm "NO" to let your ferret know when he or she is doing something bad. I recommend using the firm "NO" before a time out, or in conjunction with a spray or a scruff, though it can be effective on its own.
DON'T yell at your ferret!!! You may frighten your ferret, and a ferret that considers humans to be a source of fear is not a happy ferret.
DO scruff your ferret and say "no". A gentle scruff and drag can also be effective for curbing nipping and other unwanted behaviour some in ferrets.
DO use praise to reinforce good behaviour. Positive re-enforcement is always a good thing, and the odd treat along the way certainly doesn't hurt.
DO pay attention to how your ferret reacts to different forms of discipline to determine what is effective for your ferret. At the moment, I have one ferret that reacts negatively to the "scruff and drag" but responds well to time outs and the firm "no". I have another ferret that responds to praise, but ignores the firm "no" and is impervious to time outs (he cannot be scruffed due to injuries sustained in his previous home).
Good luck figuring out what works for your ferret, and avoid DON'Ts like the plague!!!
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Ferret Lingo
Yes, it exists!
For those new to the ferret world, you have undoubtedly heard other ferret owners and enthusiasts speak of feeding their little carpet sharks duck soup, or of their hobs, jills, sprites, furkids, digboxes, n-bones, ferretvite etc, etc, etc....
Here is a quick guide to help you grasp "ferret lingo" so that you too will be able to "speak ferret" with the best of them!
Adrenal: A ferret with adrenal disease. For more information on this or various other ferret diseases, read "Ferrets for Dummies" by Kim Schilling.
Ferret suffering from advanced adrenal disease.
ADV: Aleutian's Disease Virus. Debilitating and incurable disease originally spread to ferrets by the Aleutian mink. Awareness of this disease is spreading in Canada and the United States. Ferrets can be carriers without showing signs themselves. For more information on this or various other ferret diseases, read "Ferrets for Dummies" by Kim Schilling.
Bib: Ferret pattern (see previous entry "Checkered Ferrets" for detailed description and photo)
Bonded: Two or more ferrets that have been together so long that they are virtually inseparable. Separating a bonded pair is NOT recommended as one or more of the ferrets may become depressed and refuse to eat following separation.
Bonded pair of ferrets
Carpet shark: Ferret (because they like to glide along the carpet and sometimes attack toes)
Cheweasles: Edible rubber textured chew treat for ferrets. Similar products include: Superchews by Marshall and Edible Chew treats (also by Marshall)
DEW: Dark Eyed White - ferret colour (see previous entry "Colour Me Ferret" for detailed description and photo)
Digbox: Container filled with dirt, sand, rice, beans or similar for ferret to dig in (see "Toy Tips" for more information on digboxes and other great ideas for ferret entertainment!)
Dook: Sound made by ferrets when they are happy. Here is an example (approximately 30 seconds in)
Duck Soup: High protein diet for sick ferrets; contains no duck, but a mixture of baby food, soft cat food, soaked kibble and other ingredients. Named after the creator's ferret "Duck", there are now about a million different recipes with each recipe claiming to be the best.
Ferrents: Ferret owners (or ferret parents)
Ferretvite (also known as Furovite): ferret vitamin supplement and treat. The best stuff (with taurine added) comes in a tube and has a molasses-like colour and texture.
Ferretone (also known as Furotone): ferret coat supplement and treat. This is an oil that most ferrets go nuts for!
Foamy Fries: edible foam - textured chew treats for ferrets.
Ferret enjoying foamy fry edible chew treat
Furkids: Ferrets
Fuzzbutts: Ferrets
Fuzzies: ferrets
Giggle: See dook.
Guardhairs: Coarse outer hairs on a ferret's coat (see previous entry "Colour Me Ferret" for detailed description)
Gib: Altered male ferret
Happy Dance: Sign of a happy and playful ferret. The ferret hops and flips about with its mouth open. Really good example of a happy dance can bee seen approximately 30 seconds in.
Hob: Unaltered male ferret
Hood: Ferret pattern (see previous entry "Checkered Ferrets" for detailed description and photo)
Jill: Unaltered female ferret
Marshall ferret: ferret from a large ferret mill in the United States. Ferrets are generally known for their laid back temperment and can be identified by two blue dots tattooed into one of the ears.
Milled ferret: Ferret from a large ferret mill such as Marshall as opposed to a private breeder. Some claim that milled ferret are more prone to cancers and other diseases common to ferrets, but it is more likely that this is due to the small ferret gene pool in North America.
Mitt: Ferret pattern (see previous entry "Checkered Ferrets" for detailed description and photo)
nbones: edible ferret chew treat intended to help keep your ferret's teeth clean.
Nbone chew treats for ferrets.
Rat tail: May be a sign of Adrenal Disease in ferrets; swelling of the adrenal glands causes, among other things, the ferret to lose the hair beginning at the base of their tail. This disease is serious and any ferret exhibiting signs of the disease should be taken to a knowledgeable ferret vet for treatment immediately. For more information on this or various other ferret diseases, read "Ferrets for Dummies" by Kim Schilling. Hair loss beginning at the END of the tail, however, is probably NOT adrenal disease. This pattern of hair loss (assuming that it does not progress up the ferret's back) is associated with tail acne (which can be treated by washing the affected area with anti-bacterial soap daily) or possibly related to heat. The hair on the tip of the tail may grow back during the next coat change, but this is not always the case.
Hair loss related to acne or heat. Notice how the baldness does not extend to the base of the tail.
Adrenal pattern tail baldness - hair is thinning on the tail, INCLUDING at the base.
Real Canadian Ferret: Like Marshall, Real Canadian is a large ferret mill. Ferrets from this mill are often considered to be larger in size than Marshall ferrets, and slightly more ranbunctious (though I have seen rambunctious Marshalls and laid back Real Canadian ferrets, so I don't buy into the stereotype). These ferrets can be identified by small X (for females) or Y (for males) tattoos in their ears.
Roan: Ferret colour (see previous entry "Colour Me Ferret" for detailed description and photo)
Sable: Ferret colour (see previous entry "Colour Me Ferret" for detailed description and photo)
Sprite: Altered female ferret
War Dance: See happy dance.
Woozel: Ferret
If you can think of any ferret lingo not on this list, or hear something a want to know what it means, please feel free to comment or e-mail me!
For those new to the ferret world, you have undoubtedly heard other ferret owners and enthusiasts speak of feeding their little carpet sharks duck soup, or of their hobs, jills, sprites, furkids, digboxes, n-bones, ferretvite etc, etc, etc....
Here is a quick guide to help you grasp "ferret lingo" so that you too will be able to "speak ferret" with the best of them!
Adrenal: A ferret with adrenal disease. For more information on this or various other ferret diseases, read "Ferrets for Dummies" by Kim Schilling.
Ferret suffering from advanced adrenal disease.
ADV: Aleutian's Disease Virus. Debilitating and incurable disease originally spread to ferrets by the Aleutian mink. Awareness of this disease is spreading in Canada and the United States. Ferrets can be carriers without showing signs themselves. For more information on this or various other ferret diseases, read "Ferrets for Dummies" by Kim Schilling.
Bib: Ferret pattern (see previous entry "Checkered Ferrets" for detailed description and photo)
Bonded: Two or more ferrets that have been together so long that they are virtually inseparable. Separating a bonded pair is NOT recommended as one or more of the ferrets may become depressed and refuse to eat following separation.
Bonded pair of ferrets
Carpet shark: Ferret (because they like to glide along the carpet and sometimes attack toes)
Cheweasles: Edible rubber textured chew treat for ferrets. Similar products include: Superchews by Marshall and Edible Chew treats (also by Marshall)
DEW: Dark Eyed White - ferret colour (see previous entry "Colour Me Ferret" for detailed description and photo)
Digbox: Container filled with dirt, sand, rice, beans or similar for ferret to dig in (see "Toy Tips" for more information on digboxes and other great ideas for ferret entertainment!)
Dook: Sound made by ferrets when they are happy. Here is an example (approximately 30 seconds in)
Duck Soup: High protein diet for sick ferrets; contains no duck, but a mixture of baby food, soft cat food, soaked kibble and other ingredients. Named after the creator's ferret "Duck", there are now about a million different recipes with each recipe claiming to be the best.
Ferrents: Ferret owners (or ferret parents)
Ferretvite (also known as Furovite): ferret vitamin supplement and treat. The best stuff (with taurine added) comes in a tube and has a molasses-like colour and texture.
Ferretone (also known as Furotone): ferret coat supplement and treat. This is an oil that most ferrets go nuts for!
Foamy Fries: edible foam - textured chew treats for ferrets.
Ferret enjoying foamy fry edible chew treat
Furkids: Ferrets
Fuzzbutts: Ferrets
Fuzzies: ferrets
Giggle: See dook.
Guardhairs: Coarse outer hairs on a ferret's coat (see previous entry "Colour Me Ferret" for detailed description)
Gib: Altered male ferret
Happy Dance: Sign of a happy and playful ferret. The ferret hops and flips about with its mouth open. Really good example of a happy dance can bee seen approximately 30 seconds in.
Hob: Unaltered male ferret
Hood: Ferret pattern (see previous entry "Checkered Ferrets" for detailed description and photo)
Jill: Unaltered female ferret
Marshall ferret: ferret from a large ferret mill in the United States. Ferrets are generally known for their laid back temperment and can be identified by two blue dots tattooed into one of the ears.
Milled ferret: Ferret from a large ferret mill such as Marshall as opposed to a private breeder. Some claim that milled ferret are more prone to cancers and other diseases common to ferrets, but it is more likely that this is due to the small ferret gene pool in North America.
Mitt: Ferret pattern (see previous entry "Checkered Ferrets" for detailed description and photo)
nbones: edible ferret chew treat intended to help keep your ferret's teeth clean.
Nbone chew treats for ferrets.
Rat tail: May be a sign of Adrenal Disease in ferrets; swelling of the adrenal glands causes, among other things, the ferret to lose the hair beginning at the base of their tail. This disease is serious and any ferret exhibiting signs of the disease should be taken to a knowledgeable ferret vet for treatment immediately. For more information on this or various other ferret diseases, read "Ferrets for Dummies" by Kim Schilling. Hair loss beginning at the END of the tail, however, is probably NOT adrenal disease. This pattern of hair loss (assuming that it does not progress up the ferret's back) is associated with tail acne (which can be treated by washing the affected area with anti-bacterial soap daily) or possibly related to heat. The hair on the tip of the tail may grow back during the next coat change, but this is not always the case.
Hair loss related to acne or heat. Notice how the baldness does not extend to the base of the tail. Adrenal pattern tail baldness - hair is thinning on the tail, INCLUDING at the base.Real Canadian Ferret: Like Marshall, Real Canadian is a large ferret mill. Ferrets from this mill are often considered to be larger in size than Marshall ferrets, and slightly more ranbunctious (though I have seen rambunctious Marshalls and laid back Real Canadian ferrets, so I don't buy into the stereotype). These ferrets can be identified by small X (for females) or Y (for males) tattoos in their ears.
Roan: Ferret colour (see previous entry "Colour Me Ferret" for detailed description and photo)
Sable: Ferret colour (see previous entry "Colour Me Ferret" for detailed description and photo)
Sprite: Altered female ferret
War Dance: See happy dance.
Woozel: Ferret
If you can think of any ferret lingo not on this list, or hear something a want to know what it means, please feel free to comment or e-mail me!
Saturday, May 2, 2009
Fostering good relationships - when the ferret is the mean one
I've noticed, when looking for information about fostering relationships between ferrets and cats or ferrets and dogs, that the assumption seems to be that the ferret is the innocent one, and the other animals are the aggressors; it is excellent information, but what is the other animals LIKE the ferret and the new ferret is the aggressor?
I recently had such a situation and found little information on how to deal with the issue in any ferret book, so I posted the question on my facebook page to see if other people had had similar situations, and, if so, how they had overcome them. Sure enough, the online ferret community came through! Here is some advise that I was given...
FIRST - try to figure out whether the ferret is acting aggressively or simply afraid. If you have just gotten the ferret this is more difficult to determine as you are not yet familiar with his or her body language. Here are some tips to try and determine whether what you are seeing is fear or aggression: FEAR will cause the ferret to back away from the dog or cat and lunge only when the animal comes to near, AGGRESSION will cause the ferret to lunge at the dog or cat without backing away. To make matters more complicated, some ferrets will be fearful of the dog or cat immediately and then begin to act aggressively towards it as it begins to feel more comfortable in the home.
SECOND - keep in mind that if the ferret is aggressive, he or she will likely never be friends with your dog or cat and will likely feel the need to snap at or chase them on occasion; it is possible, however, to get them to co-exist at least part of the time. If the ferret is fearful, it is your duty to teach the ferret that he or she has nothing to fear from the other animals; bear in mind that if you do not teach the ferret that the dog and or cat is not something to be afraid of, you will ruin any chance of a friendly relationship between the animals.
THIRD - use treats, not discipline. Find a treat that your ferret loves and feed it to your ferret when the other animal is around. This technique works best when the other animal receives treats at the same time. Begin at a distance in an area that the ferret feels safe (such as a cage) and gradually move the animals closer together over a period of weeks. If you have a relapse of aggression or fear with the ferret lunging or trying to nip at the other animal, take a break, move them a bit further apart again and continue the treating. Discipline, especially is form of nose snapping or bum tapping is a real no no as it will teach your ferret that the other animal is a bad thing that causes people to attack him or her. Time outs, if used correctly, can be effective, but only when used in conjunction with treats. If, for example, the ferret decides during play time to run over to the dog and (aggressively) bite or chase the dog, then a brief time out is in order. The time out should be followed up with treating both animals together.
BE PATIENT! Fostering positive relationships is a long process. If your have a set back, don't get discouraged, take it as a sign that you are moving too fast and slow it down. It is better to take months introducing the animals and have them get along or, at the very least co-exist than to constantly have to separate your pets and worry constantly about them severely injuring each other.
GOOD LUCK! Hopefully this information has been of some use; if you have any more questions, don't hesitate to e-mail us!
I recently had such a situation and found little information on how to deal with the issue in any ferret book, so I posted the question on my facebook page to see if other people had had similar situations, and, if so, how they had overcome them. Sure enough, the online ferret community came through! Here is some advise that I was given...
FIRST - try to figure out whether the ferret is acting aggressively or simply afraid. If you have just gotten the ferret this is more difficult to determine as you are not yet familiar with his or her body language. Here are some tips to try and determine whether what you are seeing is fear or aggression: FEAR will cause the ferret to back away from the dog or cat and lunge only when the animal comes to near, AGGRESSION will cause the ferret to lunge at the dog or cat without backing away. To make matters more complicated, some ferrets will be fearful of the dog or cat immediately and then begin to act aggressively towards it as it begins to feel more comfortable in the home.
SECOND - keep in mind that if the ferret is aggressive, he or she will likely never be friends with your dog or cat and will likely feel the need to snap at or chase them on occasion; it is possible, however, to get them to co-exist at least part of the time. If the ferret is fearful, it is your duty to teach the ferret that he or she has nothing to fear from the other animals; bear in mind that if you do not teach the ferret that the dog and or cat is not something to be afraid of, you will ruin any chance of a friendly relationship between the animals.
THIRD - use treats, not discipline. Find a treat that your ferret loves and feed it to your ferret when the other animal is around. This technique works best when the other animal receives treats at the same time. Begin at a distance in an area that the ferret feels safe (such as a cage) and gradually move the animals closer together over a period of weeks. If you have a relapse of aggression or fear with the ferret lunging or trying to nip at the other animal, take a break, move them a bit further apart again and continue the treating. Discipline, especially is form of nose snapping or bum tapping is a real no no as it will teach your ferret that the other animal is a bad thing that causes people to attack him or her. Time outs, if used correctly, can be effective, but only when used in conjunction with treats. If, for example, the ferret decides during play time to run over to the dog and (aggressively) bite or chase the dog, then a brief time out is in order. The time out should be followed up with treating both animals together.
BE PATIENT! Fostering positive relationships is a long process. If your have a set back, don't get discouraged, take it as a sign that you are moving too fast and slow it down. It is better to take months introducing the animals and have them get along or, at the very least co-exist than to constantly have to separate your pets and worry constantly about them severely injuring each other.
GOOD LUCK! Hopefully this information has been of some use; if you have any more questions, don't hesitate to e-mail us!
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Great new 'ferret food'!!!
I normally don't do endorsements on my website, but I was recently at a pet food store searching for a high quality ferret or cat kibble, and I stumbled onto an amazing find.
Now I'm sure that many of you in the ferret world are already aware of this food, but for those that aren't, check it out! Orijin cat food can be checked out online at http://www.orijen.ca/orijen/about/ or at Total Pet, Quackers Canine Cuisine (they may only carry dog food) or Ospika pet and farm in Prince George.
This food is rather reasonably priced - less expensive than Totally Ferret, with a higher protein content... it is nothing short of impressive. The protein content of Orijin cat food hovers around a whopping 45%, with 20% fat, and .25% taurine (Totally ferret has roughly the same amount of fat and taurine, but only 36% protein) - full analysis of the food can be found at http://www.orijen.ca/orijen/products/CatAnalysis.aspx. The first three ingredients of this food are: chicken, chicken meal, turkey meal, making it a nice, meaty alternative to many other ferret and cat foods on the market.
Now I'm sure that many of you in the ferret world are already aware of this food, but for those that aren't, check it out! Orijin cat food can be checked out online at http://www.orijen.ca/orijen/about/ or at Total Pet, Quackers Canine Cuisine (they may only carry dog food) or Ospika pet and farm in Prince George.This food is rather reasonably priced - less expensive than Totally Ferret, with a higher protein content... it is nothing short of impressive. The protein content of Orijin cat food hovers around a whopping 45%, with 20% fat, and .25% taurine (Totally ferret has roughly the same amount of fat and taurine, but only 36% protein) - full analysis of the food can be found at http://www.orijen.ca/orijen/products/CatAnalysis.aspx. The first three ingredients of this food are: chicken, chicken meal, turkey meal, making it a nice, meaty alternative to many other ferret and cat foods on the market.
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Ouch! Cuts, scratches and puncture wounds
Let’s face it, ferrets LOVE to bug. They enjoy harassing cats, dogs and even other ferrets, playfully dodging any retaliatory strikes put forward by the aggravated animal. I will stop at this point and make one things perfectly clear: I do not condone allowing your ferret to play unsupervised with other animals or even unfamiliar ferrets.Sometimes no matter how careful you are, bad things things happen.
So what do you do if your ferret gets a cut, scratch or puncture wound? First, I would suggest assessing the situation. Is the ferret badly hurt? If so, then an emergency trip to the vet is in order. Or is it just a scratch or shallow cut? If the ferret only has a small scratch, then an emergency trip to the vet is not necessary. I would suggest thoroughly washing the injured area with a strong soap such as a hibitane solution and keeping an eye on the wound over the next few days for signs of infection. If the injury was made by another ferret, a small amount of inflammation is possible in some cases; if the inflammation around the wound does not subside after a few hours, take the animal to the vet - it is better to be safe than sorry. Puncture wounds are particularly nasty creatures - they are difficult to spot and can be a source of infection. Sometimes, bacteria or foreign matter can get forced under the skin by a puncture, causing the injury to become infected or abscess.
Abscesses are not nice; they require regular cleaning and medication to help kill the bacteria inside the wound and force the infection causing matter out of the body. Abscess
are also tough to treat, especially on a ferret. If the abscess is large, the vet may flush the wound, then lance (partially stitch) it and insert a drain to keep the wound clear of pus while healing. If the wound is not quite bad enough to be lanced and inserting a drain is not required or recommended, then it is up to the owner to keep the wound clean, as pus free as possible, and open. Keeping an abscess clean on a ferret is not easy - because of their low profile and ability to squeeze into small spaces, ferrets are DUST MAGNETS, and therefore their abscess must be cleaned AT LEAST twice a day. Abscesses are cleaned using a warm cloth. Often, the heat of the cloth will draw the pus out of the wound; if the infection is severe or the abscess has been neglected, the pus may have to be gently squeezed out of the wound; this should be done until no more pus comes out.It is very important to remove scabs when cleaning as abscesses need to heal from the inside out. Allowing the outer layer of skin to heal over such a deep and bacteria laden wound will likely cause the abscess to reoccur.
Once the pus is out of the abscess, you may want to consider cleaning the area with a hibitane solution to prevent bacteria on the skin surrounding the wound from entering it, and perhaps applying a topical anti-bacterial agent such as polysporin**. Your vet will be able to tell you which products you should use to keep the wound clean while it is healing. If you notice that your ferret has an abscess, you should bring your ferret to the vet immediately: neglecting an abscess it never a good idea. A neglected abscess can cause your ferret a great deal of pain and discomfort. Swelling around the abscess leading to hair loss and thin skin on the affected area is possible in extreme cases, as is the infection entering the blood stream, leading to the death of the animal. Abscesses, if neglected, may become so infected that the infection spreads to other wounds, causing an entire area to become a giant pus pocket.
If you do everything right and the abscess returns, don’t give up! Sometimes the bacteria that has embedded itself in the wound is antibiotic resistant. If this is the care and the abscess returns as pussy as ever once the antibiotics run out, have the vet do a sensitivity culture - this can help determine which bacteria has entered the abscess and which antibiotics can get rid of the infection.
This ferret had been attacked by something. The wounds had not been properly or regularly cleaned and the ferret had not been treated; the animal had not been kept in clean conditions and was on no medication to help fight the bacterial invasion. The result: severe infection. Gently pressing on any single part of the neck (or on the pus-filled swelling located on the side of his neck) would cause pus to ooze out of all of the wounds. We counted approximately 7 abscesses total; it is likely that the infection began in one wound and spread. Due to infected abscesses, the ferret was almost completely bald around his neck and his skin was alarmingly thin. Allowing these wounds to get so infected would perhaps have been a bit more excusable if the infection was antibiotic resistant, or even potentially if treating it was extremely expensive; this was not the case. The abscesses were responsive to antibiotics, not too costly, and, after weeks of careful and thorough cleaning (which would not have been very time consuming had the infection not been allowed to spread), hair grew back, the skin began to thicken and the abscesses healed.** when using a product such as Polysporin, make sure that the animal does NOT lick off the product as it may contain ingredients that are toxic when ingested. I suggest keeping the ferret separate from other animals and keeping it occupied until the Polysporin has 'soaked in' to the skin. Long term use is also not recommended due to possible negative effects on the kidneys.
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Ferret Pr(oops)ing --- A Near Tragic Tale
As mentioned in my previous blogs, the task of ferret proofing is NEVER done, and sometimes after months of showing no interest in a particular object or space, your ferret will take an interest in that object or space, when this happens, its best to act immediately to ensure that you ferrets safety, not doing so could have tragic results. As a friend of mine likes to say “ferrets are nothing more than suicide machines with fur, its a wonder we let ourselves get so attached to them”; nothing could be more accurate.
One of our ferrets recently ‘discovered’ a hole in the wall behind a fake cupboard door. Though he had seen this hole before, he had previously shown no interest in it... one day we noticed that he kept going back to that hole again and again. Not wanting to hammer boards into the wall of our rental home, we attempted to block off the cupboard with duct tape and cardboard. We later learned that this ferret had figured out how to remove duct tape.
One morning we went outside to eat breakfast in the sun. We were outside for less than 15 minutes and when we returned the cupboard was open - the ferret had gone into the hole. We squeaked his toy and heard him shuffling around in the hole, but he didn’t come out. Now, this ferret DOES come to a squeaky toy, but only if nothing more exciting is going on; we decided to continue on with our day and leave treats to tempt him out. When we returned that evening he had still not emerged. Something was wrong. We headed into the laundry room immediately below our suite to see if we could tell where he was. After about a half hour of searching, we found some fur popping out from around a large cast iron pipe. We removed some of the insulation and found his head - it was at this point that we realized that he was stuck. We borrowed some tools and attempted to cut an area large enough for him to exit; it was then that we discovered just HOW stuck he was. Somehow, this little guy had gotten his head pinned - he could breathe but he could not move. Unable to do anything more for him that night, we fed him some water and ferretvite and went to bed. We got up early the next morning and drove to the hardware store to rent some more appropriate tools. About an hour later, the ferret was still stuck and we came to the conclusion that if we wanted to get this little guy out we needed to get professional help, so we hired a carpenter. After four hours of drilling and cutting we exposed the ferret’s head and body; eventually we were able to free his head and, with the help of a vegetable oil drenching he was able to wiggle free. He emerged from his 27 hour imprisonment oily, hungry and dehydrated but other than few minor cuts and scratches on his body, he was unhurt. This ferret was extremely lucky. Not only did we know that he had gotten into our wall, we were also able to figure out where exactly he was stuck, enabling us to use the power tools necessary to saw through decades of poorly done renovations. He was also lucky because we were able to free his head, and it is doubtful that he realizes just how close he was to not being able to be taken out alive.
The outcome: the ferret has recovered and is as mischievous as ever, we now have some large holes in the drywall and a nice repair bill. The worst part is that this whole thing was avoidable. Had we simply asked about boarding over the hole in the first place and done so as soon as the ferret had shown an interest in the hole this terrible ordeal could have been avoided.The bottom line: A fool may not learn from his own mistakes, but only a complete idiot doesn’t learn from the mistakes of others. Don’t let something avoidable like this happen to you - remember to act immediately when your ferret shows you something new that needs to be ferret proofed. We were lucky, you may not be. And YES, IT CAN HAPPEN TO YOU.
Monday, March 2, 2009
Ferret Proofing - the laundry room
Finally - the laundry room. The laundry room is a big NO FERRET zone - it is full of hazards and nearly impossible to make ferret friendly. Ferrets have been known to fall asleep in dirty clothes only to be thrown
in the washing machine or climb into the dryer while their owners are busy transferring clothes from the washer to the dryer; often such laundry room capers end in serious injury or death on behalf of the ferret. It is not only the washer and dryer that pose serious risks to fuzzies however; the laundry room is full of hazards - laundry detergent can cause serious harm to ferrets if it is ingested, and let's face it, ferrets like to taste anything that they find on the floor. Other laundry room threats include holes for drier vents and dirt floors, making this room the most ferret-unfriendly room in the house. It is probably best for your sanity and your ferret's safety to keep this room blocked off with a big NO FERRETS ALLOWED sign on the door... if your ferrets complain about discrimination, tell them that it is for their own safety.
Good luck ferret proofing your home and remember - just when you think that your home is ferret proof, your fuzzy will point out a new hazard... the task of ferret proofing is NEVER done.
in the washing machine or climb into the dryer while their owners are busy transferring clothes from the washer to the dryer; often such laundry room capers end in serious injury or death on behalf of the ferret. It is not only the washer and dryer that pose serious risks to fuzzies however; the laundry room is full of hazards - laundry detergent can cause serious harm to ferrets if it is ingested, and let's face it, ferrets like to taste anything that they find on the floor. Other laundry room threats include holes for drier vents and dirt floors, making this room the most ferret-unfriendly room in the house. It is probably best for your sanity and your ferret's safety to keep this room blocked off with a big NO FERRETS ALLOWED sign on the door... if your ferrets complain about discrimination, tell them that it is for their own safety.Good luck ferret proofing your home and remember - just when you think that your home is ferret proof, your fuzzy will point out a new hazard... the task of ferret proofing is NEVER done.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Ferret Proofing - the bedroom
If you plan on letting your ferret into the bedroom - and let's face it, who can resist taking a quick nap with their warm and fuzzy friend - then there are a few things that you need to do to make your room safe for your ferret. The biggest bedroom threat to your ferret is the boxspring. Like the bottom of the couch, the bottom of the boxspring is covered in a thin, easily ripped fabric, and in a battle between ferret and springs, whether in a couch or in a boxspring, the springs always win. Ferrets can be kept out of boxsprings the same way that they can be kept out of couches - either by stapling sheets to the bottom of the boxsping, or by placing the boxspring on the floor. If you have a foam mattress, you may not have to worry about a boxspring, but you do have to worry about your ferret shredding and possibly even eating the foam. In order to keep your foam mattress in one piece, you may wish to invest in a foam mattress cover or make sure that you keep your sheets tucked snugly around the mattress, leaving no part of it exposed to fuzzy claws. If you have children, or are a child at heart, make
sure that all toys are stored out of fuzzy reach - rubber tires and rubbery toys are easily pulled apart and eaten by a ferret. A couple of bedroom reminders: Check all blankets for ferrets before sitting on your bed and if you use your floor as a horizontal closet, check your clothing for ferrets before stepping on it.
Friday, February 20, 2009
Ferret Proofing - the bathroom
Foamy, soapy, spongy, rubbery - those are the key words to keep in mind when ferret proofing the bathroom. Anything that is foamy, soapy, spongy or rubbery is a ferret magnet. Plugs, soap, plungers, toilet brushes (ok, they don't quite fit, but they do attract ferrets), razors with rubber grips, tooth and hairbrushes (again - rubbery grips) are all fair game in the world of the ferret. The trouble is that much of the stuff found in the bathroom is not ferret friendly. Plugs are easily chewed apart and ingested, soaps may make ferrets sick, etc. So how do you make the bathroom ferret-friendly? Well, in some cases you simply cannot successfuly do so and should just keep the door closed when ferret is about, but if you want to try or have a bathroom that can be ferret-proofed then here are some tips... if you have shower doors, keep them firmly closed. This will make the bathtub and its contents out of reach for fuzzy. If you do not have a shower door, store all soaps, shampoos, plugs, razors etc. high up and out of ferret reach. 
Make sure that rubbery anti-slip mats are moved out of ferret reach either by sticking them high on the wall or by closing shower doors - ferrets love to chew off and swallow the suction cups. Store the plunger under the sink(if your ferret cannot get under the sink) or, if string it under the sink is not an option, store it in a margarine or ice cream container with a small hole pocked through the top for the handle, but keep in mind that some ferrets will be able to figure out how to remove the lid. Do the same with the toilet brush - the chemicles on it can make fuzzy rather sick and maybe even kill him - its best not to take that chance. Keep the garbage out of reach along with feminine hygiene products (some ferrets love to steal them and rip them apart), and be sure to always keep the toilet covered - toilets are filled with fascinating smells and pose a big drowning risk to over curious ferrets.
Make sure that rubbery anti-slip mats are moved out of ferret reach either by sticking them high on the wall or by closing shower doors - ferrets love to chew off and swallow the suction cups. Store the plunger under the sink(if your ferret cannot get under the sink) or, if string it under the sink is not an option, store it in a margarine or ice cream container with a small hole pocked through the top for the handle, but keep in mind that some ferrets will be able to figure out how to remove the lid. Do the same with the toilet brush - the chemicles on it can make fuzzy rather sick and maybe even kill him - its best not to take that chance. Keep the garbage out of reach along with feminine hygiene products (some ferrets love to steal them and rip them apart), and be sure to always keep the toilet covered - toilets are filled with fascinating smells and pose a big drowning risk to over curious ferrets.
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Ferret Proofing - the kitchen
The kitchen can pose many hidden risks to a mischievous ferret. Gaps that allow fuzzies to get behind or underneath stoves, refrigerators and dishwashers MUST be blocked off - these appliances often have moving components underneath and can seriously injure or kill your ferret. If the grate of the bottom of your refrigerator pulls off easily, your ferret may be able to pull it off and get underneath - fasten it down as a precaution. One thing that I never thought of before getting my first ferret were cupboards. Some ferrets are excellent at getting into cupboards and though there may not be anything harmful to them in the cupboard, having ferrets climb through previously clean dishes is not something that most people enjoy.
Magnetic child locks or locking cupboards are ideal for keeping pots and pans ferret-free.Other types of locks such as the ones that fasten on to the top corner of the cupboard will not keep fuzzy out of the cupboards (they will be able to pull the door open wide enough to fit in), but they will make the task of cupboard entry more difficult and noisey for the ferret, allowing you to hear what your pet is up to and catching him in the act. Now a final couple of thoughts about the kitchen... first - get a locking garbage can. Garbage is interesting to most pets, and ferrets are no exception. Your pet, at best, will pull garbage out of the can and stash it around your house (and it is NOT fun to play 'where is the smell coming from' as you search for the hidden garbage) and at worst eat something out of the garbage can, causing intestinal blockage or accidentally get thrown out with the trash. Second - make sure that your ferret stay OUT of the fridge. Odds are that your pet will want to explore the interior of the refrigerator and will attempt to climb in, if you are not careful you could wind up shutting him in - it wouldn't be fun to open the fridge to get an apple and finding a hypothermic ferret.
Magnetic child locks or locking cupboards are ideal for keeping pots and pans ferret-free.Other types of locks such as the ones that fasten on to the top corner of the cupboard will not keep fuzzy out of the cupboards (they will be able to pull the door open wide enough to fit in), but they will make the task of cupboard entry more difficult and noisey for the ferret, allowing you to hear what your pet is up to and catching him in the act. Now a final couple of thoughts about the kitchen... first - get a locking garbage can. Garbage is interesting to most pets, and ferrets are no exception. Your pet, at best, will pull garbage out of the can and stash it around your house (and it is NOT fun to play 'where is the smell coming from' as you search for the hidden garbage) and at worst eat something out of the garbage can, causing intestinal blockage or accidentally get thrown out with the trash. Second - make sure that your ferret stay OUT of the fridge. Odds are that your pet will want to explore the interior of the refrigerator and will attempt to climb in, if you are not careful you could wind up shutting him in - it wouldn't be fun to open the fridge to get an apple and finding a hypothermic ferret.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Ferret Proofing - the living room
Probably one of the biggest, if not THE biggest, living room hazard is the couch. Recliners and rocking chairs pose obvious risks and should be either disabled or placed in ferret-free zones. A less obvious and often overlooked hazard is the standard living room sofa. Though these pieces of furniture are stationary, they are not necessarily any safer than recliners or rocking chairs. The underside of couches, loveseats and chairs are often covered by a thin and easily torn piece of cloth. I
f a ferret manages to tear this cloth (of if the cloth is already torn), the dark, soft interior of the couch makes an irresistible bed for him or her. I have heard many tragic stories about ferrets being crushed between springs when their owner sat on the couch or of ferrets becoming stuck in loose materials and wires in the couch and strangling themselves. If you don't want your ferret ownership to end in tragedy, then make sure that you take steps to prevent your ferret from getting in to the couch; doing so is relatively simple. If the underside of your couch is in decent shape, then simply nail or stable a sheet to the bottom, covering up the thin material. Another option if to simply remove the feet of the couch. If the ferret can't get underneath, he can't rip the cloth to get in! Also be aware of holes IN your couch such as ones that may develop at the back corner by the arms. If your couch is holey, consider covering it with a couch cover or sew sheets over any openings that would allow your pet to gain access to the much sought after warm and soft interior of the couch.
With television sets and stereos, living rooms are often wire central. Though many ferrets show no real interest in chewing wires, the odd ferret may decide to take a nibble - with
potentially deadly results. Preventing ferrets from chewing wires is not as tough as it sounds. You can invest in a platic wire cover such as those found at Ikea, London Drugs or Home Hardware, or you can cover the wires with aluminun foil (shiney side in) - most ferrets do not like to chew on the foil. If you don't think that your ferret chews wires but just want to deter him if he ever tries, you can try spraying them (the wires, not the ferrets) with bitter apple. This bitter tasting spray is non-toxic and leaves a bad taste in your ferret's mouth, discouraging him from trying out the wires again!*
*bitter apple does not work for all ferrets, and I recommend using the stronger dog formula for effectiveness
f a ferret manages to tear this cloth (of if the cloth is already torn), the dark, soft interior of the couch makes an irresistible bed for him or her. I have heard many tragic stories about ferrets being crushed between springs when their owner sat on the couch or of ferrets becoming stuck in loose materials and wires in the couch and strangling themselves. If you don't want your ferret ownership to end in tragedy, then make sure that you take steps to prevent your ferret from getting in to the couch; doing so is relatively simple. If the underside of your couch is in decent shape, then simply nail or stable a sheet to the bottom, covering up the thin material. Another option if to simply remove the feet of the couch. If the ferret can't get underneath, he can't rip the cloth to get in! Also be aware of holes IN your couch such as ones that may develop at the back corner by the arms. If your couch is holey, consider covering it with a couch cover or sew sheets over any openings that would allow your pet to gain access to the much sought after warm and soft interior of the couch.With television sets and stereos, living rooms are often wire central. Though many ferrets show no real interest in chewing wires, the odd ferret may decide to take a nibble - with
potentially deadly results. Preventing ferrets from chewing wires is not as tough as it sounds. You can invest in a platic wire cover such as those found at Ikea, London Drugs or Home Hardware, or you can cover the wires with aluminun foil (shiney side in) - most ferrets do not like to chew on the foil. If you don't think that your ferret chews wires but just want to deter him if he ever tries, you can try spraying them (the wires, not the ferrets) with bitter apple. This bitter tasting spray is non-toxic and leaves a bad taste in your ferret's mouth, discouraging him from trying out the wires again!**bitter apple does not work for all ferrets, and I recommend using the stronger dog formula for effectiveness
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Ferret Proofing - the basics
These are basic ferret proofing tips that can apply to any room of the house.
To begin ferret-proofing, you need to lie on your stomach and look around. No, I'm not joking. This will give you a 'ferret's eye view' of the world and permit you to see many hazards that you may otherwise miss. Any space that is an inch big or more is, or can be made ferret accessible by determined fuzzies. Cover any spaces that lead to hazardous areas such as your heating system, you wall, the neighbour's apartment or the great outdoors with sturdy cardboard or duct tape. If you own the building in which you live and don't feel like reapplying tape and cardboard feel free to board the holes up. Don't forget to check for gaps between or under your baseboards and under your cabinets! If you have doors that are difficult to shut or have a tendency to swing open, you may want to consider ferret-proofing the rooms behind the doors because, after all, ferrets are excellent at prying open doors and have an uncanny ability to tell when a door is not securely shut. If the door that won't stay closed leads to the great outdoors, consider keeping it locked when the ferret is out and about to ensure that it does not swing open.
Screens are another big concern when it comes to ferrets. If the screens are loose fitting, they are easily pushed or pulled out of place by a roaming ferret. If they are secure, the screen can be torn by fuzzy ferret laws. When it comes to screens, there are two options: either keep your playing ferret away from them or, if that is not possible, consider having your existing screen replaced with some new-on-the-market 'catproof' screen*
*I have not tested this stuff yet myself, so I am not sure how well it works. If it as good as is claimed, great, but keep an eye on Bandit until you are certain that he cannot rip it.
If you are a green thumb, you'll want to pay special attention to this part... PLANTS ARE FERRET MAGNETS! The damp potting soil is absolutely irresistable to ferrets so unless you want the soil spread throughout your house and all your plants uprooted, consider placing them well out of reach or suspending them from the ceiling. If the plants is a large one which cannot be moved then remove about 2 inches or more of dirt from the top of the plant and cover it with wire and lots of large heavy rocks (though smaller ones can go on top for decoration).
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Ferret Proofing - the never ending job
"A dog owner may work from sun to sun, but a ferret owner's work is never done." Ok, so that might not be quite the way that that saying goes, but, when it comes to one aspect of ferret ownership, it is most definitely accurate - the task of ferret-proofing is never done. Just when you think that you've got it all under control, your fuzzy will find new things to get into, or new ways to get into old things that you thought were safe. So what exactly IS ferret-proofing and how is it done? Ferret-proofing is the task of making your home and your ferret's play area as hazard free as possible. Ferrets are like tiny toddlers - they get into everything and put everything in their mouthes. The main difference, of course, is that toddlers, unlike ferrets, are not small enough to fit in inch wide spaces and are not covered in fuzz. Now that we know WHAT ferret-proofing is, it is time to tackle the tough task of explaining HOW to ferret proof your home. Because each room in the house presents a unique set of hazards, and we want to avoid a single 16 page blog entry, the different rooms in the house will be covered by different blog entries.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Checkered Ferrets? Official Names for Ferret Patterns
Now, to go with the previous post of ferret colours... ferret patterns! Patterns are how you describe colour concentrations and markings on a ferret. Here are the main ferret patterns:
Blaze: Rather than full masks, blaze ferrets have smudges or partial masks on their faces and a white ‘line’ or blaze running from their heads down onto their necks and sometimes shoulders.
Hooded: The mask extends onto the ferrets head without a break in colour, giving the mask the appearance of a hood. (Two sable ferrets, the one on the bottom is hooded, the one on the top is siamese with a V shaped mask - notice the break in the mask on the siamese coloured ferret.)
Mitts: Look like well, white mitts. Ferrets with mitts have four white feet and a white bib or throat and chest.
Panda: This pattern is denoted by a white head, chest, throat, neck and mitts, a pink nose and rings or smudges around the eyes.
Point (aka Siamese): Have legs and tails darker than the rest of their bodies and masks shaped like a thin V (though some colours like champaign may not have masks at all)
Solid: A solid coloured ferret is more uniform in colour than the average ferret (whose legs and tail are generally at little bit darker than the rest of his body, but less dark that a siamese).
Standard: Your average ferret! Their legs and tail are slightly darker than the rest of their bodies, and their mask is thick and T shaped.
Now you are ready the proper colour and pattern names together and describe your ferrets like an expert! My last pair of ferrets, for example, were a silver blaze and a standard sable... see how much more ‘professional’ that sounds? Have fun colour coding your ferrets!
Blaze: Rather than full masks, blaze ferrets have smudges or partial masks on their faces and a white ‘line’ or blaze running from their heads down onto their necks and sometimes shoulders.
Hooded: The mask extends onto the ferrets head without a break in colour, giving the mask the appearance of a hood. (Two sable ferrets, the one on the bottom is hooded, the one on the top is siamese with a V shaped mask - notice the break in the mask on the siamese coloured ferret.)Mitts: Look like well, white mitts. Ferrets with mitts have four white feet and a white bib or throat and chest.
Panda: This pattern is denoted by a white head, chest, throat, neck and mitts, a pink nose and rings or smudges around the eyes.
Point (aka Siamese): Have legs and tails darker than the rest of their bodies and masks shaped like a thin V (though some colours like champaign may not have masks at all)Solid: A solid coloured ferret is more uniform in colour than the average ferret (whose legs and tail are generally at little bit darker than the rest of his body, but less dark that a siamese).
Standard: Your average ferret! Their legs and tail are slightly darker than the rest of their bodies, and their mask is thick and T shaped.
Now you are ready the proper colour and pattern names together and describe your ferrets like an expert! My last pair of ferrets, for example, were a silver blaze and a standard sable... see how much more ‘professional’ that sounds? Have fun colour coding your ferrets!
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Colour me ferret - technical names for ferret colours
Ever wonder what colour your ferret is? (In terms of official classification anyways). Just as dogs and cats have special names for their unique colour combinations and patterns, ferrets have names for their colour combinations and patterns too. Before we can dive into colour names, we must first dismantle the ferret’s coat. It is important to note that ferret coats have two layers. The outermost layer is called full of coarse, thick, longer hairs that are meant to help repel water. These hairs are called guard hairs. The second layer is a shorter, fuzzier layer meant to help keep the ferret warm. This layer is called the undercoat. The guard hairs are often different colours than the undercoat and knowing the difference between the two layers is essential for being able to colour code your fuzzy. Without further ado - the colour designations:
Albino: Albino ferrets have a white or off-white undercoat with matching white or off-white guard hairs and pinkish or red eyes. For showing purposes (yes, there are ferret shows), a pure white ferret with ruby red eyes is preferred.
Dark Eyed White (DEW): DEW ferrets are similar in colour to albinos, but while Albinos have red eyes, DEW ferrets have dark burgundy eyes. Also unlike Albinos, DEW ferrets do not have to be entirely white. DEW undercoats must be white, but a few coloured guard hairs are acceptable so long as the coloured guard hairs are less than 10% of the coat. Neither Albinos nor DEW can have smudges or masks.
Roan: Formerly known as silver, these ferrets have a mixture of white and black guard hairs making them appear silver in colour. The ideally, the mixture should be between 50 and 60% black and 40-50% white, with the amount of black guard hairs determining how dark the nose and mask should be. Like DEW ferrets, Roan ferrets hard dark burgundy eyes.
Champagne: Champagne ferrets have light tan coloured guard hairs white or cream coloured undercoats, a pink nose with a beige T outline and burgundy eyes.
Cinnamon: Cinnamon ferrets have light, cinnamon coloured guard hairs with a light gold or off-white undercoat, burgundy eyes and a brick coloured or brick outlined nose.
Chocolate: Chocolate ferrets have light brown or chocolate coloured guard hairs, and a gold or white undercoat. Their noses are pink or brick coloured and may have a brown T outline. (Chocolate on right)
Sable: Probably the most common colour of ferret, these fuzzies have dark brown guard hairs, a white or cream coloured undercoat, a dark brown or brown spotted nose and dark brown eyes.
Black Sable: The eyes and undercoat of the black sable ferret is the same colour as a sable, but black sables have guard hairs that are so thick and dark that the undercoat barely shows through. Their noses are black or specked with black.
Black: Black ferrets are not very common. Their guard hairs are black (not simply dark brown) and their undercoat is white or light gold. The eyes are black or near black and the nose is black or black speckled.
Albino: Albino ferrets have a white or off-white undercoat with matching white or off-white guard hairs and pinkish or red eyes. For showing purposes (yes, there are ferret shows), a pure white ferret with ruby red eyes is preferred.
Dark Eyed White (DEW): DEW ferrets are similar in colour to albinos, but while Albinos have red eyes, DEW ferrets have dark burgundy eyes. Also unlike Albinos, DEW ferrets do not have to be entirely white. DEW undercoats must be white, but a few coloured guard hairs are acceptable so long as the coloured guard hairs are less than 10% of the coat. Neither Albinos nor DEW can have smudges or masks.Roan: Formerly known as silver, these ferrets have a mixture of white and black guard hairs making them appear silver in colour. The ideally, the mixture should be between 50 and 60% black and 40-50% white, with the amount of black guard hairs determining how dark the nose and mask should be. Like DEW ferrets, Roan ferrets hard dark burgundy eyes.Champagne: Champagne ferrets have light tan coloured guard hairs white or cream coloured undercoats, a pink nose with a beige T outline and burgundy eyes.
Cinnamon: Cinnamon ferrets have light, cinnamon coloured guard hairs with a light gold or off-white undercoat, burgundy eyes and a brick coloured or brick outlined nose.Chocolate: Chocolate ferrets have light brown or chocolate coloured guard hairs, and a gold or white undercoat. Their noses are pink or brick coloured and may have a brown T outline. (Chocolate on right)
Sable: Probably the most common colour of ferret, these fuzzies have dark brown guard hairs, a white or cream coloured undercoat, a dark brown or brown spotted nose and dark brown eyes.
Black Sable: The eyes and undercoat of the black sable ferret is the same colour as a sable, but black sables have guard hairs that are so thick and dark that the undercoat barely shows through. Their noses are black or specked with black.
Black: Black ferrets are not very common. Their guard hairs are black (not simply dark brown) and their undercoat is white or light gold. The eyes are black or near black and the nose is black or black speckled.
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